I set off for Asia in August. After three months of travel I got the call that I was needed as a volunteer in Niseko starting on December 15 for the entire ski season. My Japow dreams were actually happening. I was to work 2-4 hours per day… snow clearing in the morning and restaurant work in the evening in exchange for accommodation, food, and lift pass from December until March. This was set up to be the deepest season of my life. I quickly changed my plans and flew back to Utah. I had a week to see my family and friends, handle personal matters, and get my ski gear before flying back to Asia.

I arrived in Niseko and it was dumping. This was actually happening. But what I arrived to was not what I was promised by the lodge owner that I made the arrangement with. In fact, the owner was not even there. He was sitting in Australia collecting profit while myself and two other unpaid volunteers ran his lodge for nearly 100 high paying guests. We had a chef, bar staff, and cleaning staff but everything else– snow clearing, running the restaurant, office work, reception, shuttle driving, and all guest interaction was carried out by three of us… and none of us were paid. After three weeks of working nearly 24 hours on call I started to lose it. My stress level and frustration with the situation got the best of me. I’d flown back and forth across the Pacific Ocean and given up Christmas and New Years at home to be here. So I left. (A mutual departure between myself and the owner).

With nowhere to go, I headed back to Sapporo to reevaluate my situation. I suddenly had 2.5 months free, and I had my ski gear. I could go anywhere in the world. Leaving that situation was liberating, yet crushing at the same time. Perhaps I would not be able to ski Japan for the winter. After three days in a Sapporo hostel, I could no longer sit on my laptop looking for a job any longer. So, I decided to go skiing. There is a lesser known resort only 20km from the city center called Sapporo Teine that is accessible by public transportation within 40 minutes. I shot this video on that single day of skiing. As it turns out, Japow is accessible all over Hokkaido… even a short commute from the center of a city of 1.9 million people.

I must add.. despite a few ultra deep days, the weather in Niseko did not help my frustration. During those three weeks it rained three days, winds reached 90mph, and there were bright bluebird days and a few days of serious snowfall. It was not the consistent nuketown that is shown in every Japan edit ever.

To update: I’m back in Niseko now at a different arrangement. This one is much more fair and I shall be here until the end of February. Niseko is still a bit behind on snow, but it is possible to get a faceshot on any single day in Japan if you search hard enough.

I’m in a dream, one that I don’t want to wake up out of. The ‘flow’ of life has taken us to yet another mystical and snowy village, Kiroro.

Headed out of Kutchan, on our way to Kiroro. Photo: Kade Krichko

Day in the life. Photo: Kade Krichko

We have been fortunate enough to connect with Liam, Kiroro’s athlete manager who has guided us around the mountain, pointing out  local stashes.  Our accommodation is at the Grand Piano Hotel where there is a buffet and a karaoke bar, in which we have all taken turns busting out our best and worse hits.

Kiroro is deep. I have been battling with smiling and not choking on infinite amounts of snow here. The pitches are steep enough to soar through the bottomless and are sprinkled with exotic Japanese trees. The trees are painted white and glow miraculously, even through white outs. After skiing our first day at Kiroro Resort, we indulged in a nice meal, several bottles of wine and met up with K2 female athletes and friends to have a wild karaoke bar night.

Eric Sales getting pitted. Photo: Kade Krichko

Harrison-san getting inverted off a nice pillow. Photo: Eric Dyer

Have you ever experienced an emotion that doesn’t quite fit into any vocabulary description or that you never knew existed? A feeling that transcends through your body, mind, and surroundings, connecting all three at once. A feeling that lifts your energy to a higher vibration, releases the ego and leaves only one thought to harbor… thank you. For many, this feeling has come with accomplishing a grueling hike, looking into a lover’s eyes, or catching endless waves surfing. For me, this feeling recently came into fruition with a hundred thousand snowflakes falling on my face as I looked at my ‘line’ illuminated by a pink sky.

As we side stepped up a ridge at Kiroro, my heart beat increased and body shook with excitement. This feeling was ignited by the stunning views which were enhanced by every turn down a perfect face of untouched snow. Each turn was a mixture of laughs, gasps, and screams of ‘REALLY?!’. When I got to the bottom of the mountain and the daylight was fading, I had become addicted to this feeling. I was fully immersed in it’s peacefulness and I had to keep going. I knew when I looked at the rest of my crew, they were experiencing the same feeling. We returned to our rooms to get ready for a night tour on a slope located behind our hotel.  This zone was perfectly lit by the village’s light pollution.  We skinned up, with our headlamps turned off, no music, just listening to the quietness. It took us 90 minutes to get to the top, where the crew and I looked out over the untracked and just sat, stared, and exchanged looks that summed up our journey.

Skiing down in the dark, barreling through trenches in lit up snow, with not a sound other then the swishing of your skis, was the peak of that feeling. When we got to the bottom, we clicked out of skis and boards, and hugged one another before belting out our cries of joy! The experience was so surreal that we woke up at 4:30 am to do it again.  This time with the morning light shimmering onto the white pallet.  After 14 hours of skiing in the same day, it was ready to pack up our gear and head to Sapporo for our return flight. On our way back we stopped in Otaru for a great meal and a stroll along the coast. I have never been in a coastal town with 6 foot snowbanks along the roads, it was a trip!

Night tour behind the hotel overlooking Kiroro Resort’s lights. Photo: Kade Krichko

The Kiri Krew

Kade and Der kicking around on the beach. Photo: Eric Sales

When we arrived to Sapporo, our tired bodies were able to make one last push to local bars and last trips to 7/11s. In the morning, we were ready to travel back in time to the Wasatch where our friends and family would NOT want to hear about all the pow ;). Goodbye Japan, you have truly changed my mind, heart and way of life.

The last of our memories – literally – in underground train station in Sapporo. Photo: Disposable Camera

READ MORE:

• THE JAPANUARY CHRONICLES – PART 1: 5 BROS AND A TOE
• JAPANUARY CHRONICLES – PART 2: GETTING PITTED IN NISEKO
• JAPANUARY CHRONICLES – PART 3: IS THIS REAL LIFE?

Jan. 3rd: I left a few days ago to embark on a spontaneous journey to Japan to experience the deepest powder on Earth, at least that’s what I have been hearing about my whole life. I am here now. It has been an incredible week so far, and the landscape and energy of this place have already moved my spirit.

Like all my travels, the trip started out with no place to stay, sleep, or eat and the rental car shop was closed upon our arrival to Sapporo Airport. Searching through my backpack to see what would work for a pillow and a nice spot on the airport floor, we just so happened to stumble upon a 24 hour Onsen – a spa type atmosphere with hot pools for ultimate relaxation, which in this case, also happened to accommodate travelers IN the airport. Was this real life? Our tired, sore bodies were presented with robes at the door, slippers, ramen and a room full of recline-able chairs to sleep. We awoke rejuvenated and strolled around the Sapporo airport which resembled a course from Mario Cart, lots of flashing lights and animated features. After exploring, we hopped into the rented van, crammed six ski bags, 6 duffle bags, camera equipment and our bodies into limited space and headed off to Hokkaido, the northern island of Japan.

Sapporo Airport, Photo: Kade Krichko

Driving to Niseko, I felt as if I was a five year old driving to Disney Land for my first time. My heart was pounding heavily and my eyes were bulging out of their sockets. There were massive snowbanks, fluffy pillows on every house and building, glowing arrows to keep the driver aware of where he was going, and a plethora of ski-able terrain with every turn of the head. We all took turns pointing, drooling and yelling, “that line looks DOOOOOPE!”.

Hirafu Train Station, Photo: Kade Krichko

When we finally arrived in the village of Niseko, we hastily put on our ski gear and hit the slopes for some evening riding. No time for warm up runs! We hit the trees where we remained until it was too dark out. It was the first time I had my Mini-Gun skis from DirtyBird Skis in the deep and oh man did they charge. With a 109mm footprint and set for touring  – they were my only pair of skis I had brought on the trip which were more than perfect for all conditions.

With a taste of Japan’s finest snow, our giddy selves enjoyed a nice ramen dinner and started to experiment with the different libations that Japan had to offer… we are after all thirsty pow stuffed ski bums.

Our tiny abode next to our van in lots, and lots of snow! Photo: Kade Krichko

Some few days later: We are staying in a cabin next to the Hirafu train station, a quaint spot outside of the Niseko village. The Kiri Krew (Kiri is Japanese for MYST, the name associated with our crew) and I have been extremely grateful for this small, yet cozy spot. It is outside of Niseko’s proper village, which is refreshing because it allows us to escape the alarming amount of tourists and party animals. The curator of the property is a man named Yoshi, who has spent 10 plus years managing the small cabins surrounding the train station, which he operates as a hostel and notably built himself. The 6 members of the Kiri Krew make our own parties. Just give us a couple bottles of sake and the upstairs of our small abode turns to the Sake Lounge.

Waking up in Japan is better than waking up on Christmas morning, better than waking up to breakfast in bed, and damn if I say it, even better than waking up next to Brad Pitt. When your eyes open and you look out the window, you see nothing but a white mist, snowflakes elegantly falling and stacking on top of one another, forming huge mushroom-tops on every single object . Your hangover, from too much Sake and Sochu, instantly vanishes, because you know you are about to have the best day of skiing of your life. Again. and again. And again.

Japanese bakery – something to hold us over until after pow sesh. Photo: Kade Krichko

Outside of Niseko is a resort called Rusutsu. While here at first, you may experience feelings of nostalgia, because of the giant roller coasters next to the chairlifts. Other times, you feel like you have entered the twilight zone. Rolling into the lodge, your typical hot coco machines and chili galore are completely MIA. Instead, there is a giant talking tree, carousel, and Japanese arcade games with beer vending machines and churros for sale.

Rusustu Lodge, another day in the life. Photo: Kade Krichko

Deep As F**k. Photo: Eric Sales

Eric Dyer sending it into the fluffy goodness. Photo: Eric Sales

Once on the mountain, you let go of this bizarre reality and enter Japan’s infamous white room. During my first turn, I sunk 6 feet into Japan’s heavenly depths and immediately popped up to only be finding myself diving into another six feet of fresh pow. At one point, I had to ask myself, do I know how to ski snow THIIIIS DEEP… and instantly found out that 1.) YES I DO, and 2.) it’s the shit. Rusutsu may not offer the steepest of terrain, but the thought doesn’t even cross your mind when you are skiing untracked all day. There are plenty of pillows to smash, trees to jump through, and rocks to huck your meat off of. The trees are perfectly spaced and capture the vibrant and mystical energy Japan is known for. Our time at Rusutsu has been astounding, yet comical. Leaving Rusutsu, one has to stop at many of the 7-Eleven. Yes, 7-Eleven, the convenience store. Not your typical après scene, but when ‘sevs’ are serving Strong Zeros, seaweed triangles, mini pancakes and hot meat buns, it’s undeniably satisfying.

Packing up after an awesome day at Rusutsu. Photo: Kade Krichko

7/11 never disappoints. Photo: Kade Krichko

See ya! Photo: Kade Krichko

READ MORE:

• THE JAPANUARY CHRONICLES – PART 1: 5 BROS AND A TOE
• JAPANUARY CHRONICLES – PART 3: IS THIS REAL LIFE?