I set off for Asia in August. After three months of travel I got the call that I was needed as a volunteer in Niseko starting on December 15 for the entire ski season. My Japow dreams were actually happening. I was to work 2-4 hours per day… snow clearing in the morning and restaurant work in the evening in exchange for accommodation, food, and lift pass from December until March. This was set up to be the deepest season of my life. I quickly changed my plans and flew back to Utah. I had a week to see my family and friends, handle personal matters, and get my ski gear before flying back to Asia.

I arrived in Niseko and it was dumping. This was actually happening. But what I arrived to was not what I was promised by the lodge owner that I made the arrangement with. In fact, the owner was not even there. He was sitting in Australia collecting profit while myself and two other unpaid volunteers ran his lodge for nearly 100 high paying guests. We had a chef, bar staff, and cleaning staff but everything else– snow clearing, running the restaurant, office work, reception, shuttle driving, and all guest interaction was carried out by three of us… and none of us were paid. After three weeks of working nearly 24 hours on call I started to lose it. My stress level and frustration with the situation got the best of me. I’d flown back and forth across the Pacific Ocean and given up Christmas and New Years at home to be here. So I left. (A mutual departure between myself and the owner).

With nowhere to go, I headed back to Sapporo to reevaluate my situation. I suddenly had 2.5 months free, and I had my ski gear. I could go anywhere in the world. Leaving that situation was liberating, yet crushing at the same time. Perhaps I would not be able to ski Japan for the winter. After three days in a Sapporo hostel, I could no longer sit on my laptop looking for a job any longer. So, I decided to go skiing. There is a lesser known resort only 20km from the city center called Sapporo Teine that is accessible by public transportation within 40 minutes. I shot this video on that single day of skiing. As it turns out, Japow is accessible all over Hokkaido… even a short commute from the center of a city of 1.9 million people.

I must add.. despite a few ultra deep days, the weather in Niseko did not help my frustration. During those three weeks it rained three days, winds reached 90mph, and there were bright bluebird days and a few days of serious snowfall. It was not the consistent nuketown that is shown in every Japan edit ever.

To update: I’m back in Niseko now at a different arrangement. This one is much more fair and I shall be here until the end of February. Niseko is still a bit behind on snow, but it is possible to get a faceshot on any single day in Japan if you search hard enough.

I’m in a dream, one that I don’t want to wake up out of. The ‘flow’ of life has taken us to yet another mystical and snowy village, Kiroro.

Headed out of Kutchan, on our way to Kiroro. Photo: Kade Krichko

Day in the life. Photo: Kade Krichko

We have been fortunate enough to connect with Liam, Kiroro’s athlete manager who has guided us around the mountain, pointing out  local stashes.  Our accommodation is at the Grand Piano Hotel where there is a buffet and a karaoke bar, in which we have all taken turns busting out our best and worse hits.

Kiroro is deep. I have been battling with smiling and not choking on infinite amounts of snow here. The pitches are steep enough to soar through the bottomless and are sprinkled with exotic Japanese trees. The trees are painted white and glow miraculously, even through white outs. After skiing our first day at Kiroro Resort, we indulged in a nice meal, several bottles of wine and met up with K2 female athletes and friends to have a wild karaoke bar night.

Eric Sales getting pitted. Photo: Kade Krichko

Harrison-san getting inverted off a nice pillow. Photo: Eric Dyer

Have you ever experienced an emotion that doesn’t quite fit into any vocabulary description or that you never knew existed? A feeling that transcends through your body, mind, and surroundings, connecting all three at once. A feeling that lifts your energy to a higher vibration, releases the ego and leaves only one thought to harbor… thank you. For many, this feeling has come with accomplishing a grueling hike, looking into a lover’s eyes, or catching endless waves surfing. For me, this feeling recently came into fruition with a hundred thousand snowflakes falling on my face as I looked at my ‘line’ illuminated by a pink sky.

As we side stepped up a ridge at Kiroro, my heart beat increased and body shook with excitement. This feeling was ignited by the stunning views which were enhanced by every turn down a perfect face of untouched snow. Each turn was a mixture of laughs, gasps, and screams of ‘REALLY?!’. When I got to the bottom of the mountain and the daylight was fading, I had become addicted to this feeling. I was fully immersed in it’s peacefulness and I had to keep going. I knew when I looked at the rest of my crew, they were experiencing the same feeling. We returned to our rooms to get ready for a night tour on a slope located behind our hotel.  This zone was perfectly lit by the village’s light pollution.  We skinned up, with our headlamps turned off, no music, just listening to the quietness. It took us 90 minutes to get to the top, where the crew and I looked out over the untracked and just sat, stared, and exchanged looks that summed up our journey.

Skiing down in the dark, barreling through trenches in lit up snow, with not a sound other then the swishing of your skis, was the peak of that feeling. When we got to the bottom, we clicked out of skis and boards, and hugged one another before belting out our cries of joy! The experience was so surreal that we woke up at 4:30 am to do it again.  This time with the morning light shimmering onto the white pallet.  After 14 hours of skiing in the same day, it was ready to pack up our gear and head to Sapporo for our return flight. On our way back we stopped in Otaru for a great meal and a stroll along the coast. I have never been in a coastal town with 6 foot snowbanks along the roads, it was a trip!

Night tour behind the hotel overlooking Kiroro Resort’s lights. Photo: Kade Krichko

The Kiri Krew

Kade and Der kicking around on the beach. Photo: Eric Sales

When we arrived to Sapporo, our tired bodies were able to make one last push to local bars and last trips to 7/11s. In the morning, we were ready to travel back in time to the Wasatch where our friends and family would NOT want to hear about all the pow ;). Goodbye Japan, you have truly changed my mind, heart and way of life.

The last of our memories – literally – in underground train station in Sapporo. Photo: Disposable Camera

READ MORE:

• THE JAPANUARY CHRONICLES – PART 1: 5 BROS AND A TOE
• JAPANUARY CHRONICLES – PART 2: GETTING PITTED IN NISEKO
• JAPANUARY CHRONICLES – PART 3: IS THIS REAL LIFE?

Sometime in January: It continues to snow, and I continue to change. Being fully immersed in blower pow is where I want to be all day every day, and Japan is turning it into a reality. There is an absence of thought and a taste of bliss when one is gliding through bottomless pow, it truly nourishes the soul. The Kiri Krew has gotten a taste of several of the local resorts including Grand Hirafu, Annapori and Rusustu, all being awesome in their unique way.

The best turns of this trip, however, has been at a smaller and more low key resort called Moiwa. The pow fields at Moiwa were closed for four days due to chairlift maintenance, and we made sure we were at the opening gate when it was ready to open. At first I was nervous, because the lift line was starting to resemble the tram line at the Bird, we were surrounded with pow-hungry locals and stoked-overloaded tourists from all around the world. But worry not, we  somehow skied untracked for the first ten runs and then still found stashes until last bell.

Pitted! PC: My GoPro

When you are skiing in Japan, there is no time for lunch, bathroom breaks or any kind of stopping for that matter. You have legs cramps? Ski through it. Your stomach is eating itself? Ski through it. Goggles fog? Welp, your skiing blind anyway, so who needs good vis. It isn’t until you are in the parking lot loading your gear into the van when you realize your limbs have become ramen.  But it’s OK for your joints to want to burst, that is what the Onsens are for.

After skiing, we have been revitalizing in the Onsens at Goshiki, a very small village (more of a zone) with an abundance of terrain to tour. Onsens are hot pools that are naturally heated from the volcanic surroundings. Men and women are segregated and can only enter naked. The Japanese believe entering naked is a way to break societal barriers, however you have to enter clean as a fermented bean and wash yourself in the bathing areas provided. I have been fortunate enough to have these gems to myself, it’s where I reflect and pay homage to Japan’s mountains. I’m truly thankful to be here.

Sun peaking through the clouds at Annupuri. Photo: Kade Krichko

The Kiri Krew in Japan posing with some primo custom Dirtybird boards.

The Kiri Krew has a new addition to the team, a free-spirit from Nova Scotia that is residing at the Hirafu Train Station. Matt, also known as Lordly, met us while making breakfast in the common kitchen while laughing over GoPro footage from the night before. After accessing to see we weren’t totally out of our minds, he decided to tag-a-long on some of our adventures to find the deep! Lordly brought a lot of stoke to the trip with his photos from Nelson, BC and a serious passion for snowboarding. His warm presence reminds me why I love to travel so much, the people you meet are always as good as the places you go.

These resort’s in-bound terrain have exceeded our expectations of japow. However, we have also be fortunate enough to tour Goshiki, an area outside of Niseko, sprinkled with trees and untouched powder snow. Just lapping under the tree line, we ascended and descended until the sky grew dark and our legs were ready for the Onsen. It is usually this time of evening where I  spend a good portion of the night dedicated to getting the massive dreads that have formed in my hair.

Touring behind Goshiki Onsen. Photo: Matt Lordly

Snoozin after a long day shredding and marinating in the Onsen. Photo: Matt Lordly -

When people have asked me “Who are you traveling with?” and I respond with “5 guys”, the consistent raise of eyebrows and unfiltered expressions have been quite funny.  If you know me, I’m quite use to being the ‘only’ girl.  Don’t get me wrong, I have an incredibly close knit group of girls I hang with that all shred as hard as they dance, but for some reason, I have always found myself able to really connect and bro-down with the dudes.  That said, I was still slightly nervous to go on the trip knowing I would be immersed in smelly farts, mildewy socks and non-stop ‘your mom’ jokes.  I have to say, I have loved every bit of it and I wouldn’t change the dynamic of it if I could.  These guys are the brothers I never had. They push me to hit cliffs, keep charging, and take that next whisky shot.  My abs hurt from laughing so hard at their ridiculous banter and my heart melts when they offer to carry my heavy luggage.  The Kiri Krew is not gender specific, all it requires is being stoked (albeit not ODing on stoke), and loving every minute of the pow-filled life we are experiencing.

Eric Dyer and Harrison spreading toke in Sapporo. Photo: Kade Krichko

Eric Sales in front of the camera instead of behind it for once. Photo: Kade Krichko

Found an awesome ‘quilt’ map of Niseko while enjoying drinks trying to figure out where the hell we are! Photo: Kade Krichko

Gearing up to go tour Goshiki. Photo: Kade Krichko

Triple espresso, choco-taco, and some anime porn – why not? Photo: Kade Krichko

The ‘Japanangeletti’ getting after it, pillows for days! Photo: Eric Sales

READ MORE:

• THE JAPANUARY CHRONICLES – PART 1: 5 BROS AND A TOE
• JAPANUARY CHRONICLES – PART 2: GETTING PITTED IN NISEKO

Jan. 3rd: I left a few days ago to embark on a spontaneous journey to Japan to experience the deepest powder on Earth, at least that’s what I have been hearing about my whole life. I am here now. It has been an incredible week so far, and the landscape and energy of this place have already moved my spirit.

Like all my travels, the trip started out with no place to stay, sleep, or eat and the rental car shop was closed upon our arrival to Sapporo Airport. Searching through my backpack to see what would work for a pillow and a nice spot on the airport floor, we just so happened to stumble upon a 24 hour Onsen – a spa type atmosphere with hot pools for ultimate relaxation, which in this case, also happened to accommodate travelers IN the airport. Was this real life? Our tired, sore bodies were presented with robes at the door, slippers, ramen and a room full of recline-able chairs to sleep. We awoke rejuvenated and strolled around the Sapporo airport which resembled a course from Mario Cart, lots of flashing lights and animated features. After exploring, we hopped into the rented van, crammed six ski bags, 6 duffle bags, camera equipment and our bodies into limited space and headed off to Hokkaido, the northern island of Japan.

Sapporo Airport, Photo: Kade Krichko

Driving to Niseko, I felt as if I was a five year old driving to Disney Land for my first time. My heart was pounding heavily and my eyes were bulging out of their sockets. There were massive snowbanks, fluffy pillows on every house and building, glowing arrows to keep the driver aware of where he was going, and a plethora of ski-able terrain with every turn of the head. We all took turns pointing, drooling and yelling, “that line looks DOOOOOPE!”.

Hirafu Train Station, Photo: Kade Krichko

When we finally arrived in the village of Niseko, we hastily put on our ski gear and hit the slopes for some evening riding. No time for warm up runs! We hit the trees where we remained until it was too dark out. It was the first time I had my Mini-Gun skis from DirtyBird Skis in the deep and oh man did they charge. With a 109mm footprint and set for touring  – they were my only pair of skis I had brought on the trip which were more than perfect for all conditions.

With a taste of Japan’s finest snow, our giddy selves enjoyed a nice ramen dinner and started to experiment with the different libations that Japan had to offer… we are after all thirsty pow stuffed ski bums.

Our tiny abode next to our van in lots, and lots of snow! Photo: Kade Krichko

Some few days later: We are staying in a cabin next to the Hirafu train station, a quaint spot outside of the Niseko village. The Kiri Krew (Kiri is Japanese for MYST, the name associated with our crew) and I have been extremely grateful for this small, yet cozy spot. It is outside of Niseko’s proper village, which is refreshing because it allows us to escape the alarming amount of tourists and party animals. The curator of the property is a man named Yoshi, who has spent 10 plus years managing the small cabins surrounding the train station, which he operates as a hostel and notably built himself. The 6 members of the Kiri Krew make our own parties. Just give us a couple bottles of sake and the upstairs of our small abode turns to the Sake Lounge.

Waking up in Japan is better than waking up on Christmas morning, better than waking up to breakfast in bed, and damn if I say it, even better than waking up next to Brad Pitt. When your eyes open and you look out the window, you see nothing but a white mist, snowflakes elegantly falling and stacking on top of one another, forming huge mushroom-tops on every single object . Your hangover, from too much Sake and Sochu, instantly vanishes, because you know you are about to have the best day of skiing of your life. Again. and again. And again.

Japanese bakery – something to hold us over until after pow sesh. Photo: Kade Krichko

Outside of Niseko is a resort called Rusutsu. While here at first, you may experience feelings of nostalgia, because of the giant roller coasters next to the chairlifts. Other times, you feel like you have entered the twilight zone. Rolling into the lodge, your typical hot coco machines and chili galore are completely MIA. Instead, there is a giant talking tree, carousel, and Japanese arcade games with beer vending machines and churros for sale.

Rusustu Lodge, another day in the life. Photo: Kade Krichko

Deep As F**k. Photo: Eric Sales

Eric Dyer sending it into the fluffy goodness. Photo: Eric Sales

Once on the mountain, you let go of this bizarre reality and enter Japan’s infamous white room. During my first turn, I sunk 6 feet into Japan’s heavenly depths and immediately popped up to only be finding myself diving into another six feet of fresh pow. At one point, I had to ask myself, do I know how to ski snow THIIIIS DEEP… and instantly found out that 1.) YES I DO, and 2.) it’s the shit. Rusutsu may not offer the steepest of terrain, but the thought doesn’t even cross your mind when you are skiing untracked all day. There are plenty of pillows to smash, trees to jump through, and rocks to huck your meat off of. The trees are perfectly spaced and capture the vibrant and mystical energy Japan is known for. Our time at Rusutsu has been astounding, yet comical. Leaving Rusutsu, one has to stop at many of the 7-Eleven. Yes, 7-Eleven, the convenience store. Not your typical après scene, but when ‘sevs’ are serving Strong Zeros, seaweed triangles, mini pancakes and hot meat buns, it’s undeniably satisfying.

Packing up after an awesome day at Rusutsu. Photo: Kade Krichko

7/11 never disappoints. Photo: Kade Krichko

See ya! Photo: Kade Krichko

READ MORE:

• THE JAPANUARY CHRONICLES – PART 1: 5 BROS AND A TOE
• JAPANUARY CHRONICLES – PART 3: IS THIS REAL LIFE?

Several weeks ago – I was invited to go to Japan with a small crew of shredders that I had only skied with a handful of times. Mind you, those handful of times were a ridiculously good time and they quickly got to know my level of stoke when I wouldn’t shut up about how much I love to poof in the powdery pillows of light fluffy AWESOMENESS…right! This brigade of skiers and snowboarders are known as the MYST, dedicated to Solitude’s finest slopes, they are a fun and crazy bunch of kids who like to get after it, drink PBR, and grill hot dogs in the parking lot.  My type for sure.

Devon Wright in Niseko, Japan 2014 – PC: Eric Sales

After expressing my dire need to get to Japan ASAP with Facebook posts of random Japan edits and constantly reading trip reports of other skiers experience of Ja’pow’, I was utterly surprised when I was approached and asked if I wanted to go… this year! Knowing I only had $26 dollars in my bank account and needing to still acquire half the gear needed, I snap called and replied ‘fuck yes I want to go to Japan with you guys!’

Devon Wright in Niseko, Japan 2014 – PC: Eric Sales

When I say guys, I literally mean ALL dudes. This endeavor will consist of 5 bros and 1 toe (that’s me). The six of us will cram into a van and indulge in our quest to find the deepest, lightest, and most magical snow that Japan has to offer.  The lacking finances and missing gear has been a huge motivator to work extra hard to play even harder. I have since found myself in a variety of jobs from serving, cocktailing, teaching, marketing, sales, and so many random things that my friends still have no idea what I’m doing half the time. Plus, local ski company Dirtybird Skis hooked me up a with a custom pair of sticks to take on the trip, so that was a huge help! In between working, I have been training, eating healthy, skiing, taking avalanche courses and practicing with backcountry gear to prepare me for the trip.  Could I have planned to go to Japan next year when I would be in a more stable situation, perhaps. But my life doesn’t work like that, I thrive on spontaneity.

This trip will be memorable.  It will not only be embedded in our hearts, but thanks to our trip photographer Eric Sales, we will be able to document our journey on Spread Stoke. Experience the sake hangovers, white room, terrible B.O., mullets, dance-offs, and Japanese culture with myself and the MYST crew.

Meet the crew and stay tuned for trip reports, photos and edits:

Nick the ‘Langelliti’ 

A ripping snowboarder who is currently earning his degree is Physical Therapy at the University of Utah.  Has killer dance moves, Hawaiian flowers on his jacket, and enjoys an occasional haiku.  Ladies watch out!

“I like to feel small. Forming a beautiful unison with a board under my feet while doing so resonates with me most. This form of flow is a motion that simply is. I think it’s beautiful.”

“Now let’s get pitted in every sense of the word – STOKED!!!”

Eric Sales

Sponsored By: RAMP | Soul Poles

A skier of all trades, photographer, adventurer and food enthusiast. When Sales isn’t traveling the world, he is researching climate issues and teaching at the University of Utah.  Upi can depend on Sales to scope the line and get the shot, all while getting his share of the gnar.  Sales knows the ins and outs of Japan’s finest powder and also knows where to go for the divine ramen. 

“I couldn’t be more stoked to get back to Japan and get pitted with my friends!”

Harrison Hogan Holley

Sponsored By: RAMP | Soul Poles | Solitude Mtn Resort | Yeti Collective | Jen | Lulu

Harrison enjoys getting hair deep in the white stuff but will take zero-visibility bulletproof day with friends over just about anything (bold statement).  He competes in the Subaru Freeride Series and IFSA Freeride Tour, and will do a back-flip off just about anything.

“Having the freedom to look at a gnarly mountain face and choose a line that is both fun and challenging has been one of the most difficult and rewarding experiences of my life. Send it before you send it!”

Kade Krichko

Northwest-born, Ice Coast bred, Kade pays rent in Seattle, but calls his Subaru home—especially when the snow starts to fly. He freelances for Powder, Outside, ESPN.com, and GrindTV, but would rather talk about amateur surf adventures, slow jams, and street food.

“Oh, and smanging pow!”

Eric Dyer

Also known as ‘Der’, he enjoys long chairlift conversations, sidestepping up steep ridges, and sipping on ice cold PBRs.  You’ll often hear Die Antwoord or Phish blasting from his car speakers while he his strapping up his boots.

“Skis check, sake check.. All good”

Tori Sowul

Dirtybird Skis

Also known as ‘Toe’ or ‘Tornado’, Tori is devoted to the mountains, loves to ascend and descend them fast, no matter what given the season. Notorious for losing phones, emphasizing adverbs (the snow was sooooooo sick), putting avocado on everything, and getting down twirling in ski boots to a science.  Will yell at you for not recycling, orders whisky on the rocks, and wears bright color tights!

“Bring on Japanuary!’

READ MORE:

• JAPANUARY CHRONICLES – PART 2: GETTING PITTED IN NISEKO
• JAPANUARY CHRONICLES – PART 3: IS THIS REAL LIFE?

Stumbled across this amazeballs video by Robin Lee and there are just no words to describe it. I sit here breathless, yearning for snow, and frothing with jealousy as I watch this, over and over and over again. Robin … you had us at ‘japow’.

Robin not only has mad skiing talent, but truly amazing video/photography skills as well. Make sure you check out his stellar blog write up of hi 17 day trip in Japan over the holidays on his blog: “Japan. The Good, The Bad and The Ugly…But Pretty Much ALL GOOD!”

Check out more of his work at RobinLeeVisuals.com and follow him on Instagram @robintlee.

The Life Cosmic Project is founded on ridership of flow. The flow rider is one who embodies a challenging task in motion where body, mind and spirit are enacted and performed with grace. We are collective of visionaries, innovators, and artist, dedicated to exploring the experience of “Stoke!” and sharing that experience in various art forms through the local communities we represent.

The Life Cosmic Project will be traveling to Japan to intimately explore the winter environment of Niseko and translate this experience through art to the local snowboard, meditation, and climate change communities in Missoula, Montana and Toronto, Ontario. We will be sharing these experiences through a variety of mediums of artwork and donating the proceeds generated to the A-ROB Plant A Seed Project through our Fundrazr page ”SHARE THE “STOKE!“. The Project will provide the experience of snowboarding to underprivileged children along with the opportunity to discover the exhilarating feeling of “Stoke!” through a snowboarding based mentorship program.

PURPOSE OF CAMPAIGN: In support of the A-ROB Plant A Seed Project, the Life Cosmic Project wishes to create rider inspired artwork in Niseko, Japan through the medium of film, photography and poetry. Our story will weave together three elements of snowboarding – the expression of the physical, the spiritus of meditation, and the environmental experience of winter. This project expands the activity of snowboarding to a level of artistic expression. The first element will entice the imagination of local snowboarding communities in both Canada and the United States to reach beyond North America. We intend to portray a parallel of snowboarding at the same latitude but at opposite sides of the world, and how the experience of snow connects us. The second element is based upon the practice of meditation. Through the act of snowboarding, the internal condition of flow is extended to a variety of activities. We will be focusing on enacting a Japanese perspective and “surf style” of snowboarding. Surf style is about blending with the energy of the mountain. This predominant expression from Northern Japan is a type of calligraphy upon canvas, in essence, a dance with the mountain. Our visual images of one in oneness, draws the audience to an inward experience of “Stoke!” Or as the Japanese say “Sugoi!” and “Saiko!” The third element focuses on the oral history of the winter experience in Niseko. As the winters grow shorter, the effects of climate change are seen near and far.

We will be conducting interviews, based on interactive and interpersonal stories of winter.  This oral history will be connected to similar histories from North America at the same latitude. The stories are intended to compliment scientific research based on global climate change, and human interactions with the environment. Through our portrayal, we will be demonstrating the how and why it is important that we interact with the spirit of ourselves and the environment. Like us on FaceBook: The Life Cosmic Project.